Trvalý odkaz Pridané používateľom Anonymný (bez overenia) dňa So, 12/14/2024 - 14:28
There is something reassuringly robust about The Punch Bowl Inn.<br>
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Not just in the old-fashioned bar, where the Wainwright Gold is well kept and a huge <br>
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leather sofa sits before a blazing wood burner; or in the dining room, solid and comfortable, with its old beams,<br>
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well-trodden wooden floors and tables unadorned with cloths;<br>
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it's in the menu, too, mainly British with a Gallic burr, that makes full <br>
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use of the magnificent local Lake District larder.<br>
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Stornoway black pudding with crispy egg and bubble and squeak:<br>
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‘pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis', is Tom's verdict<br>
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We're here with Peter Gott, that great Cumbrian hero, and the man behind <br>
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Sillfield Farm, who has invited me up to cook at the Westmorland County Show; also chef Phil Vickery, who certainty knows <br>
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his alliums; and the force of nature that is Lorraine Stanton, something of a legend around <br>
<br>
these parts. But first dinner, and a sublime twice-baked Mrs Kirkham's <br>
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cheese soufflé, the texture as light as a sigh, the flavour profoundly, lasciviously rich.<br>
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Mrs Kirkham's, now made by her son Graham, is one of the world's great cheeses, and this is a soufflé of quiet majesty.<br>
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A mushroom soup is equally splendid, managing to be both light and <br>
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gutsy, while Stornoway black pudding with bubble and squeak and a deep-fried egg is pure <br>
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Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis.<br>
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There's a fundamental generosity here, matched by assured technical precision. <br>
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Duck à l'orange sees a plump breast cooked rare, the skin crisp,<br>
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the sauce just the right side of bitter. It comes with a fat potato fondant and cabbage <br>
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spiked with shards of smoked bacon. I eat rump of lamb, four vast <br>
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just-pink slices, drenched in the stickiest, most gloriously <br>
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intense of gravies; by its side, a tiny shepherd's pie, one <br>
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bite of pure ovine brilliance.<br>
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Puddings are every bit as fine: a lemon tart, beautifully <br>
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sharp, with damson sorbet (this part of the Lake District is <br>
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famed for its damsons); along with a banana soufflé, this time the classic version but ethereal, served <br>
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with vanilla ice cream and a pot of sticky-toffee sauce to <br>
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pour deep into its molten centre. This is good old-fashioned <br>
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food, immaculately done, in the sort of pub designed for lingering.<br>
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It's getting late now, and we've an early start. But first, another bottle of wine.<br>
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Dinners like this are too rare to be rushed.<br>
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About £45 per head. The Punch Bowl Inn, Crosthwaite,<br>
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Cumbria; the-punchbowl.co.uk<br>
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★★★★✩ <br>
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There is something