Trvalý odkaz Pridané používateľom Anonymný (bez overenia) dňa So, 12/07/2024 - 13:41
There is something reassuringly robust about <br>
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The Punch Bowl Inn. Not just in the old-fashioned bar,<br>
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where the Wainwright Gold is well kept and a huge leather sofa sits before a blazing wood burner; or in the dining room, solid and comfortable, with its old <br>
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beams, well-trodden wooden floors and tables unadorned with cloths; it's in the menu, too, mainly British with a Gallic <br>
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burr, that makes full use of the magnificent local Lake District larder.<br>
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Stornoway black pudding with crispy egg and bubble <br>
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and squeak: ‘pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis', is <br>
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Tom's verdict<br>
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We're here with Peter Gott, that great Cumbrian hero, and the man behind Sillfield Farm, <br>
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who has invited me up to cook at the Westmorland County <br>
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Show; also chef Phil Vickery, who certainty knows his alliums;<br>
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and the force of nature that is Lorraine Stanton, something of a legend around these parts.<br>
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But first dinner, and a sublime twice-baked Mrs Kirkham's cheese soufflé, the texture as <br>
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light as a sigh, the flavour profoundly, lasciviously rich.<br>
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Mrs Kirkham's, now made by her son Graham, is one of the world's great <br>
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cheeses, and this is a soufflé of quiet majesty. A mushroom soup is equally splendid,<br>
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managing to be both light and gutsy, while Stornoway black pudding with bubble and squeak and a deep-fried egg is pure Cumbrian comfort by <br>
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way of Lewis.<br>
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There's a fundamental generosity here, matched by assured technical precision. Duck à l'orange sees a <br>
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plump breast cooked rare, the skin crisp, the sauce <br>
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just the right side of bitter. It comes with a fat potato fondant and cabbage spiked with <br>
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shards of smoked bacon. I eat rump of lamb, four vast just-pink slices, drenched in the stickiest, most gloriously intense of gravies; <br>
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by its side, a tiny shepherd's pie, one bite of pure ovine brilliance.<br>
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Puddings are every bit as fine: a lemon tart, beautifully <br>
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sharp, with damson sorbet (this part of the Lake District is <br>
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famed for its damsons); along with a banana soufflé, this time <br>
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the classic version but ethereal, served with vanilla <br>
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ice cream and a pot of sticky-toffee sauce to pour deep into its molten centre.<br>
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This is good old-fashioned food, immaculately done, in the sort of pub designed for lingering.<br>
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It's getting late now, and we've an early start.<br>
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But first, another bottle of wine. Dinners like this are too rare to be <br>
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rushed.<br>
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About £45 per head. The Punch Bowl Inn, Crosthwaite, Cumbria; the-punchbowl.co.uk<br>
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★★★★✩ <br>
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