Pridať nové hodnotenie

An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer <br> <br> you simply didn't refuse. Providing, of course, that the <br> <br> bill was on someone else. Because caviar, smeared on blinis or <br> <br> piled high on baked potatoes, sure didn't come cheap.<br> <br> There may have been other things on the menu, but no <br> <br> one paid them much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few better dishes on earth…only the <br> <br> price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades <br> <br> back. And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews,<br> <br> was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into <br> <br> the brilliant Bellamy's. It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand,<br> <br> went quiet. Until last year, when she reopened as a <br> <br> members' club in another Mayfair backstreet. But a £2,000 a year <br> <br> membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning the doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome <br> <br> - albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, <br> <br> under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright, while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.<br> <br> The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent beauty, <br> <br> clad in diaphanous couture. They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via camera phone.<br> <br> Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that tastes far better than it ought to.<br> <br> Next door, a large table fills with a glut of the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent <br> <br> charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked.<br> <br> Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter <br> <br> and sour cream, are a study in tuber art. A <br> <br> cool jet-black splodge of oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises <br> <br> them to the sublime. Only the price, at just under £150 <br> <br> each, is ridiculous. But there are few better dishes on earth.<br> <br> I'd eat this every day if I could. But I can't. Obviously. That's the problem <br> <br> with caviar. One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> <b>About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <u><strong>★★★★✩</strong></u><br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>My favourite luxury dishes</b><br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of <br> <br> the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its <br> <br> most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <b><u>theritzlondon.com</u></b><br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, <br> <br> two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <u><i>ottos-restaurant.com</i></u><br> <br> <br> <br> <u><b>Sushi Kanesaka</b></u><br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans booze.<br> <br> <br> <br> But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <strong>dorchestercollection.com</strong><br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But <br> <br> don't miss the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of <br> <br> the meat. Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Check out my web page ... <a href="http://Rosttour.com/user/AngelaHartfield/">รับจัดดอกไม้งานศพ</a>
Hodnotenie: 
3
7 + 3 =