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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you simply didn't refuse.<br> <br> <br> <br> Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked <br> <br> potatoes, sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other things on the menu, but no one <br> <br> paid them much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: <br> <br> ‘there are few better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club in another Mayfair backstreet.<br> <br> But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning <br> <br> the doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the <br> <br> stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The <br> <br> soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright, while a <br> <br> loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate <br> <br> beats throbs in the background. The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture.<br> <br> They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via <br> <br> camera phone. Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur <br> <br> that tastes far better than it ought to. Next door, a large table fills <br> <br> with a glut of the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma <br> <br> that had she burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen', we <br> <br> would have barely blinked. Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as <br> <br> parchment, insides whipped savagely hard <br> <br> with butter and sour cream, are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of <br> <br> oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises them to the sublime.<br> <br> Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous.<br> <br> But there are few better dishes on earth. I'd eat this every day if I could.<br> <br> But I can't. Obviously. That's the problem with caviar.<br> <br> One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> <strong><u>About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; <br> <br> caviarkaspialondon.com</u></strong><br> <br> <br> <br> <b><u>★★★★✩</u></b><br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>My favourite luxury dishes</b><br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the <br> <br> best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table <br> <br> (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb (£62): Arts de <br> <br> la Table is edible theatre at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <b>theritzlondon.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à la <br> <br> presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), <br> <br> foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <i><u>ottos-restaurant.com</u></i><br> <br> <br> <br> <b>Sushi Kanesaka</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, <br> <br> sans booze. But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very <br> <br> finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <b>dorchestercollection.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss the wood-fired Beijing <br> <br> duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of the meat.<br> <br> Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> My webpage; <a href="https://Shorl.com/tynaposuhiga">ค่าจัดดอกไม้งานศพ</a>
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