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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you <br> <br> simply didn't refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked <br> <br> potatoes, sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other things on the menu, but no <br> <br> one paid them much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar:<br> <br> ‘there are few better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back. And that site, hidden down a <br> <br> smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> <br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went <br> <br> quiet. Until last year, when she reopened as a members' <br> <br> club in another Mayfair backstreet. But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning the doors were opened to the <br> <br> great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - <br> <br> albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular <br> <br> gloom is broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously <br> <br> bright, while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.<br> <br> <br> <br> The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent <br> <br> beauty, clad in diaphanous couture. They don't speak, rather communicate <br> <br> entirely via camera phone. Pose, click, check, filter, post.<br> <br> Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia <br> <br> croque monsieur that tastes far better than it ought to.<br> <br> Next door, a large table fills with a glut of the noisily, glossily <br> <br> confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had <br> <br> she burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen', we would <br> <br> have barely blinked. Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as <br> <br> parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and sour cream, are a study in tuber art.<br> <br> A cool jet-black splodge of oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises <br> <br> them to the sublime. Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous.<br> <br> But there are few better dishes on earth. I'd eat <br> <br> this every day if I could. But I can't. Obviously. That's the <br> <br> problem with caviar. One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> ★★★★✩<br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> My favourite luxury dishes<br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's <br> <br> pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb (£62):<br> <br> Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its most <br> <br> delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> theritzlondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie <br> <br> gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> ottos-restaurant.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Sushi Kanesaka<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans booze.<br> <br> But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its <br> <br> very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> dorchestercollection.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss the wood-fired Beijing <br> <br> duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of the meat.<br> <br> Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Check out my page :: ขาย wine - http://hsecotour.co.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=free&wr_id=159819
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