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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you simply didn't <br> <br> refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> <br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes, <br> <br> sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other <br> <br> things on the menu, but no one paid them much heed.<br> <br> This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few better dishes on earth…only the price, <br> <br> at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair <br> <br> mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club <br> <br> in another Mayfair backstreet. But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning the doors were <br> <br> opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very <br> <br> stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright, while <br> <br> a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.<br> <br> The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, <br> <br> luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture. They don't speak, rather <br> <br> communicate entirely via camera phone. Pose, click,<br> <br> check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that <br> <br> tastes far better than it ought to. Next door, a large table fills with a glut <br> <br> of the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such <br> <br> effervescent charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu performance of <br> <br> ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked. Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as <br> <br> parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and sour cream, <br> <br> are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of <br> <br> oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises them to the sublime.<br> <br> Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous. But there are few better dishes on earth.<br> <br> <br> <br> I'd eat this every day if I could. But I can't.<br> <br> Obviously. That's the problem with caviar. One taste is never <br> <br> enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> ★★★★✩<br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> My favourite luxury dishes<br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> theritzlondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef <br> <br> tartare (£42), foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> ottos-restaurant.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Sushi Kanesaka<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per <br> <br> person, sans booze. But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> dorchestercollection.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't <br> <br> miss the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of the meat.<br> <br> Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Take a look at my blog; จัดดอกไม้งานขาว ดํา ใกล้ฉัน <br> <br> - https://ecuadortenisclub.com/456816
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