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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once <br> <br> upon a time, an offer you simply didn't refuse.<br> <br> <br> <br> Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else. Because caviar, smeared <br> <br> on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes, sure didn't come cheap.<br> <br> There may have been other things on the menu, but <br> <br> no one paid them much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are <br> <br> few better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, <br> <br> is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club <br> <br> in another Mayfair backstreet. But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard <br> <br> to swallow, meaning the doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the <br> <br> stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, <br> <br> crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of table <br> <br> lamps, indecorously bright, while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.<br> <br> The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, <br> <br> luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture.<br> <br> <br> <br> They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via camera phone.<br> <br> Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that tastes far better <br> <br> than it ought to. Next door, a large table fills with a glut of <br> <br> the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent <br> <br> charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen', we would <br> <br> have barely blinked. Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as <br> <br> parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and <br> <br> sour cream, are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of oscietra caviar,<br> <br> gently saline, raises them to the sublime. Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous.<br> <br> But there are few better dishes on earth. I'd eat this every day if <br> <br> I could. But I can't. Obviously. That's the problem with <br> <br> caviar. One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> ★★★★✩<br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> My favourite luxury dishes<br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's <br> <br> pick of the best places to splash the culinary <br> <br> cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and <br> <br> crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> theritzlondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à la presse <br> <br> (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), <br> <br> foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> ottos-restaurant.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Sushi Kanesaka<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 <br> <br> per person, sans booze. But this 13-seat sushi bar shows <br> <br> omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> dorchestercollection.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss the <br> <br> wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of the meat.<br> <br> Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Feel free to visit my page ดอกไม้งานขาว ดํา - https://www.zangia.mn/url/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuemR4dWUuY29tL2hvbWUucGhwP21vZD1zcGFjZSZ1aWQ9MTY3ODI4NQ
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