Trvalý odkaz Pridané používateľom Anonymný (bez overenia) dňa So, 11/30/2024 - 21:21
An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you <br>
<br>
simply didn't refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br>
<br>
Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes,<br>
<br>
sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other things on the menu, but no one paid them much heed.<br>
<br>
This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br>
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Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few <br>
<br>
better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br>
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Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br>
<br>
And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be <br>
<br>
the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br>
<br>
It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br>
<br>
Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club in another Mayfair backstreet.<br>
<br>
But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning the doors were opened to <br>
<br>
the great unwashed.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome <br>
<br>
- albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom <br>
<br>
is broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright,<br>
<br>
while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs <br>
<br>
in the background. The whole place is scented with gilded <br>
<br>
ennui.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale,<br>
<br>
luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture. They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via camera phone.<br>
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<br>
<br>
Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters <br>
<br>
hover in the shadows.<br>
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<br>
<br>
We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that <br>
<br>
tastes far better than it ought to. Next door, a large table fills <br>
<br>
with a glut of the noisily, glossily confident.<br>
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We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu <br>
<br>
performance of ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked.<br>
<br>
Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with <br>
<br>
butter and sour cream, are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge <br>
<br>
of oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises <br>
<br>
them to the sublime. Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
But there are few better dishes on earth. I'd eat this every day if I could.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
But I can't. Obviously. That's the problem with caviar.<br>
<br>
One taste is never enough.<br>
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<br>
About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com<br>
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★★★★✩<br>
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My favourite luxury dishes<br>
<br>
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Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard <br>
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The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't <br>
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<br>
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<br>
<br>
minjiang.co.uk<br>
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Stop by my blog: ช่อดอกไม้สีพาสเทล - http://it-Viking.ch/index.php/The_Pain_Of_%E0%B8%8A%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%89%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%81
An invitation to lunch at