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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you <br> <br> simply didn't refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes,<br> <br> sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other things on the menu, but no one paid them much heed.<br> <br> This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few <br> <br> better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be <br> <br> the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club in another Mayfair backstreet.<br> <br> But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning the doors were opened to <br> <br> the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome <br> <br> - albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom <br> <br> is broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright,<br> <br> while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs <br> <br> in the background. The whole place is scented with gilded <br> <br> ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale,<br> <br> luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture. They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via camera phone.<br> <br> <br> <br> Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters <br> <br> hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that <br> <br> tastes far better than it ought to. Next door, a large table fills <br> <br> with a glut of the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu <br> <br> performance of ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked.<br> <br> Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with <br> <br> butter and sour cream, are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge <br> <br> of oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises <br> <br> them to the sublime. Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous.<br> <br> <br> <br> But there are few better dishes on earth. I'd eat this every day if I could.<br> <br> <br> <br> But I can't. Obviously. That's the problem with caviar.<br> <br> One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> ★★★★✩<br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> My favourite luxury dishes<br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette <br> <br> flambéed with aplomb (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its <br> <br> most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> theritzlondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard <br> <br> or homard à la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef <br> <br> tartare (£42), foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti <br> <br> (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> ottos-restaurant.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Sushi Kanesaka<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans <br> <br> booze. But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its <br> <br> very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> dorchestercollection.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't <br> <br> miss the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first,<br> <br> then two servings of the meat. Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Stop by my blog: ช่อดอกไม้สีพาสเทล - http://it-Viking.ch/index.php/The_Pain_Of_%E0%B8%8A%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%89%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%81
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