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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you simply didn't refuse.<br> <br> Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked <br> <br> potatoes, sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other things on the menu, but no one paid <br> <br> them much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar:<br> <br> ‘there are few better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, <br> <br> is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> <br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' <br> <br> club in another Mayfair backstreet. But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning <br> <br> the doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit <br> <br> near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of <br> <br> a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by <br> <br> the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright,<br> <br> while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.<br> <br> The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture.<br> <br> <br> <br> They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via camera phone.<br> <br> Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that tastes far better than it ought to.<br> <br> <br> <br> Next door, a large table fills with a glut of the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had she <br> <br> burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen', we <br> <br> would have barely blinked. Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, <br> <br> insides whipped savagely hard with butter and sour cream,<br> <br> are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of oscietra <br> <br> caviar, gently saline, raises them to the sublime. Only <br> <br> the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous. But there are few better <br> <br> dishes on earth. I'd eat this every day if I could.<br> <br> But I can't. Obviously. That's the problem with caviar.<br> <br> One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1;<br> <br> caviarkaspialondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> ★★★★✩<br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> My favourite luxury dishes<br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the best <br> <br> places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb (£62):<br> <br> Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> theritzlondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard <br> <br> à la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse <br> <br> rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> ottos-restaurant.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Sushi Kanesaka<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans booze.<br> <br> But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> dorchestercollection.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't <br> <br> miss the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first,<br> <br> then two servings of the meat. Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Also visit my homepage - จัดดอกไม้งานขาว ดํา ราคา <br> <br> - https://oliviath.com/%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B3/
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