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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer <br> <br> you simply didn't refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked <br> <br> potatoes, sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other things on the menu, <br> <br> but no one paid them much heed. This was all about lashings <br> <br> of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> <br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who <br> <br> used to be the boss), and transformed into the <br> <br> brilliant Bellamy's. It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club in another Mayfair backstreet.<br> <br> But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning <br> <br> the doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit near <br> <br> empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of <br> <br> a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of <br> <br> table lamps, indecorously bright, while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.<br> <br> The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of <br> <br> pale, luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture. They don't speak, <br> <br> rather communicate entirely via camera phone. Pose, click, check, filter, post.<br> <br> Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that tastes far <br> <br> better than it ought to. Next door, a large table fills with a glut <br> <br> of the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma <br> <br> that had she burst into an impromptu performance of <br> <br> ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked.<br> <br> Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and sour <br> <br> cream, are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of oscietra <br> <br> caviar, gently saline, raises them to the sublime.<br> <br> Only the price, at just under £150 each, <br> <br> is ridiculous. But there are few better dishes on earth.<br> <br> I'd eat this every day if I could. But I can't. Obviously.<br> <br> That's the problem with caviar. One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> <b><u>About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; <br> <br> caviarkaspialondon.com</u></b><br> <br> <br> <br> <u>★★★★✩</u><br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>My favourite luxury dishes</b><br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash <br> <br> in LondonTom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>theritzlondon.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à la presse (£150-£220 per <br> <br> person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>ottos-restaurant.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <i><u>Sushi Kanesaka</u></i><br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans booze.<br> <br> But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <i><u>dorchestercollection.com</u></i><br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of <br> <br> the meat. Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> my web-site; <a href="http://Www.Mallangpeach.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=free&wr_id=1153286">ดอกไม้แสดงความห่วงใย</a>
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