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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you simply didn't refuse.<br> <br> Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes,<br> <br> sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other <br> <br> things on the menu, but no one paid them much heed. This was <br> <br> all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar:<br> <br> ‘there are few better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, <br> <br> is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> <br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be <br> <br> the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club in another Mayfair backstreet.<br> <br> But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow,<br> <br> meaning the doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The <br> <br> soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of table lamps,<br> <br> indecorously bright, while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.<br> <br> <br> <br> The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture.<br> <br> They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via <br> <br> camera phone. Pose, click, check, filter, post.<br> <br> Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia <br> <br> croque monsieur that tastes far better than it ought to.<br> <br> Next door, a large table fills with a glut of the <br> <br> noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu <br> <br> performance of ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked.<br> <br> <br> <br> Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and sour cream,<br> <br> are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of oscietra <br> <br> caviar, gently saline, raises them to the sublime. Only the price, <br> <br> at just under £150 each, is ridiculous. But there are few better dishes <br> <br> on earth. I'd eat this every day if I could. But I can't. Obviously.<br> <br> That's the problem with caviar. One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street,<br> <br> London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <b>★★★★✩</b><br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>My favourite luxury dishes</b><br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed <br> <br> with aplomb (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre <br> <br> at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <b>theritzlondon.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à <br> <br> la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>ottos-restaurant.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <b>Sushi Kanesaka</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, <br> <br> sans booze. But this 13-seat sushi bar shows <br> <br> omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <strong><u>dorchestercollection.com</u></strong><br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss the wood-fired <br> <br> Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of <br> <br> the meat. Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Look into my website; <a href="http://A1pay06.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=free&wr_id=3072755">ดอกไม้แสดงความคิดถึง</a>
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