Trvalý odkaz Pridané používateľom Anonymný (bez overenia) dňa So, 11/30/2024 - 04:48
There is something reassuringly robust about The Punch Bowl Inn.<br>
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Not just in the old-fashioned bar, where the Wainwright Gold is <br>
<br>
well kept and a huge leather sofa sits before a blazing wood burner; or in the <br>
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dining room, solid and comfortable, with its old beams, <br>
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well-trodden wooden floors and tables unadorned with cloths; it's in the menu, too, mainly British with <br>
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a Gallic burr, that makes full use of the magnificent local <br>
<br>
Lake District larder.<br>
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Stornoway black pudding with crispy egg and bubble and squeak: ‘pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis', is Tom's verdict<br>
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We're here with Peter Gott, that great Cumbrian hero, and <br>
<br>
the man behind Sillfield Farm, who has invited me up to cook at <br>
<br>
the Westmorland County Show; also chef Phil <br>
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Vickery, who certainty knows his alliums; and the force of nature that is <br>
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Lorraine Stanton, something of a legend around these parts.<br>
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But first dinner, and a sublime twice-baked Mrs Kirkham's <br>
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cheese soufflé, the texture as light as a sigh, the flavour <br>
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profoundly, lasciviously rich. Mrs Kirkham's, now made by her son Graham, is one of the world's great cheeses, and this is a soufflé of quiet majesty.<br>
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A mushroom soup is equally splendid, managing to <br>
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be both light and gutsy, while Stornoway black pudding with bubble and squeak and <br>
<br>
a deep-fried egg is pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis.<br>
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There's a fundamental generosity here, matched by assured technical precision. Duck <br>
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à l'orange sees a plump breast cooked rare, the skin crisp, the sauce just the right <br>
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side of bitter. It comes with a fat potato fondant and cabbage spiked with shards of smoked bacon. I eat rump of lamb, four vast just-pink slices, drenched in the stickiest, most gloriously intense of gravies; by its side, a <br>
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tiny shepherd's pie, one bite of pure ovine brilliance.<br>
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Puddings are every bit as fine: a lemon tart, beautifully sharp, with damson sorbet (this part of the Lake District is <br>
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famed for its damsons); along with a banana soufflé, this time the <br>
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classic version but ethereal, served with vanilla ice cream and a pot <br>
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of sticky-toffee sauce to pour deep into its molten centre.<br>
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This is good old-fashioned food, immaculately done, in the sort of pub designed for lingering.<br>
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It's getting late now, and we've an early start.<br>
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But first, another bottle of wine. Dinners like this <br>
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are too rare to be rushed.<br>
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<u><b>About £45 per head. The Punch Bowl Inn, Crosthwaite, Cumbria; the-punchbowl.co.uk</b></u><br>
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★★★★✩ <br>
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