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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time,<br> <br> an offer you simply didn't refuse. Providing, of course, that the <br> <br> bill was on someone else. Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes,<br> <br> sure didn't come cheap. There may have been other things on the menu, <br> <br> but no one paid them much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are <br> <br> few better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.<br> <br> And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over <br> <br> by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant <br> <br> Bellamy's. It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club in another Mayfair <br> <br> backstreet. But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning the <br> <br> doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit near empty <br> <br> - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the <br> <br> glare of table lamps, indecorously bright, <br> <br> while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the <br> <br> background. The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture.<br> <br> They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via camera phone.<br> <br> Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters hover <br> <br> in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that <br> <br> tastes far better than it ought to. Next door, a large table fills with a glut of the <br> <br> noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French <br> <br> lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked.<br> <br> <br> <br> Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and sour cream, <br> <br> are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises them to the sublime.<br> <br> Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous.<br> <br> But there are few better dishes on earth. I'd eat this every day if <br> <br> I could. But I can't. Obviously. That's the problem with caviar.<br> <br> One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield <br> <br> Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> ★★★★✩<br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> My favourite luxury dishes<br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table <br> <br> (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb <br> <br> (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> theritzlondon.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à <br> <br> la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie <br> <br> gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> ottos-restaurant.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Sushi Kanesaka<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans booze.<br> <br> But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> dorchestercollection.com<br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss <br> <br> the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two <br> <br> servings of the meat. Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> my web-site :: ขาย wine [ Carmon - https://www.xuetu123.com/home.php?mod=space&uid=7325185 ]
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