Trvalý odkaz Pridané používateľom Anonymný (bez overenia) dňa So, 11/30/2024 - 09:36
There is something reassuringly robust about <br>
<br>
The Punch Bowl Inn. Not just in the old-fashioned bar,<br>
<br>
where the Wainwright Gold is well kept and a huge leather sofa sits before <br>
<br>
a blazing wood burner; or in the dining room, solid and comfortable, with its old beams, well-trodden wooden floors and tables unadorned with cloths; <br>
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it's in the menu, too, mainly British with a Gallic <br>
<br>
burr, that makes full use of the magnificent local Lake District larder.<br>
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Stornoway black pudding with crispy egg and bubble and squeak:<br>
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‘pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis', is Tom's verdict<br>
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We're here with Peter Gott, that great Cumbrian hero, and the man behind Sillfield Farm, who has invited me up <br>
<br>
to cook at the Westmorland County Show; also chef Phil Vickery, who certainty knows his alliums; and the force of <br>
<br>
nature that is Lorraine Stanton, something of a legend around these parts.<br>
<br>
But first dinner, and a sublime twice-baked Mrs Kirkham's cheese soufflé, the texture <br>
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as light as a sigh, the flavour profoundly, lasciviously rich.<br>
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Mrs Kirkham's, now made by her son Graham, is one of the world's great cheeses, and this is a soufflé of quiet majesty.<br>
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A mushroom soup is equally splendid, managing to be both light and gutsy, while Stornoway black <br>
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pudding with bubble and squeak and a deep-fried egg is pure <br>
<br>
Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis.<br>
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There's a fundamental generosity here, matched by assured technical precision. <br>
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Duck à l'orange sees a plump breast cooked rare, the skin crisp, <br>
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the sauce just the right side of bitter. It comes with a <br>
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fat potato fondant and cabbage spiked with shards of smoked bacon. I eat rump <br>
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of lamb, four vast just-pink slices, drenched in the stickiest, most gloriously <br>
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intense of gravies; by its side, a tiny shepherd's pie, one bite of pure ovine brilliance.<br>
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Puddings are every bit as fine: a lemon tart, beautifully <br>
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sharp, with damson sorbet (this part of the Lake District is famed for its <br>
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damsons); along with a banana soufflé, this time the classic version but ethereal, served with vanilla ice cream and a <br>
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pot of sticky-toffee sauce to pour deep into its molten centre.<br>
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This is good old-fashioned food, immaculately done, in the sort of pub designed for lingering.<br>
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It's getting late now, and we've an early start. But first, another bottle <br>
<br>
of wine. Dinners like this are too rare to be <br>
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rushed.<br>
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About £45 per head. The Punch Bowl Inn, Crosthwaite,<br>
<br>
Cumbria; the-punchbowl.co.uk<br>
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★★★★✩ <br>
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my blog พวงหรีดดอกไม้สด ใกล้ฉัน - <br>
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https://pipewiki.org/wiki/index.php/User:MoraBagley7655
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