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An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you simply didn't <br> <br> refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else.<br> <br> <br> <br> Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes, sure didn't come cheap.<br> <br> There may have been other things on the menu, but no one paid <br> <br> them much heed. This was all about lashings of the <br> <br> black stuff.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few <br> <br> better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous'<br> <br> <br> <br> Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two <br> <br> decades back. And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews,<br> <br> was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.<br> <br> <br> <br> It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.<br> <br> <br> <br> Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club <br> <br> in another Mayfair backstreet. But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to <br> <br> swallow, meaning the doors were opened to the great unwashed.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit <br> <br> near empty - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting <br> <br> of a very stern man. The soft, crepuscular gloom is <br> <br> broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright,<br> <br> while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs <br> <br> in the background. The whole place is scented with <br> <br> gilded ennui.<br> <br> <br> <br> Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous couture.<br> <br> They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via camera <br> <br> phone. Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate <br> <br> waiters hover in the shadows.<br> <br> <br> <br> We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and <br> <br> smoked-salmon Kaspia croque monsieur that tastes far better than it ought to.<br> <br> Next door, a large table fills with a glut of the noisily, glossily confident.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had she burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen',<br> <br> we would have barely blinked. Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and sour cream, are a study in tuber art.<br> <br> A cool jet-black splodge of oscietra caviar, gently saline,<br> <br> raises them to the sublime. Only the price, at just under £150 each,<br> <br> is ridiculous. But there are few better dishes on earth.<br> <br> I'd eat this every day if I could. But I can't.<br> <br> Obviously. That's the problem with caviar. One taste is never enough.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street,<br> <br> London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <u><b>★★★★✩</b></u><br> <br> <br> <br>  <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>My favourite luxury dishes</b><br> <br> Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in London<br> <br> <br> <br> The Ritz<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette flambéed with aplomb <br> <br> (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at its most delectable.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>theritzlondon.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> Otto's<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à <br> <br> la presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti <br> <br> (£190, two courses).<br> <br> <br> <br> <b>ottos-restaurant.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> <b><u>Sushi Kanesaka</u></b><br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans booze.<br> <br> But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very finest.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <b>dorchestercollection.com</b><br> <br> <br> <br> Min Jiang<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two <br> <br> servings of the meat. Superb.<br> <br> <br> <br> minjiang.co.uk<br> <br> <br> <br> Feel free to visit my homepage ... <a href="https://feitiemp.cn/home.php?mod=space&uid=99215&do=profile&from=space">ร้านขายพวงหรีด ใกล้ฉัน</a>
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